At around 7.30am he opened his eyes, but he didn't wake up - for the simple reason that he hadn't been sleeping. Jet-lag was kicking in nicely, but that wasn't the only factor at play.
He was halfway through a week-long trip to Canada, accompanied by his wife, L, and two daughters, RTB and SJ. He’d already been to Toronto, where he’d enjoyed spending time with some relatives who he’d never met before. He was soon to head to Banff, where he was destined to do his bit towards sustaining the Canadian economy by awarding a shed-load of cash to various souvenir and clothes shops.
But where he was right now was always going to be the highlight of his trip.
Eleven years ago, he and his family had driven along the Icefields Parkway, between Jasper and Banff in the Canadian Rockies. During this trip, they had stopped at Lake Louise. It wasn’t a long stop, just enough for a breather, a coffee and a photo. But, just as the photo was taken, the beauty of the scene was unexpectedly heightened by a light, unseasonal flurry of snow.
To him, it was a perfect moment.
He looked up at the grand hotel perched on the edge of the lake and said: “Wouldn’t it be fantastic to stay here?”
And so the idea, conceived by him, planned by his family and finally executed by his wife, became a reality to mark his 60th birthday.
He'd arrived at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise as dusk fell the evening before. By the time they’d checked in and identified the correct room (“Yes, we definitely booked a lakeside view”), it was dark outside, save for the light that was thrown onto the snow-carpeted ground from the windows of the hotel, and the pinpricks of festive fairy lights in the fir trees nearest the building.
A quick unpack, a dinner and drink in the downstairs saloon bar and it was time for an early night. And the beginning of a long night too, as the jet-lag prodded him, his wife snored beside him, and the sheer excitement of where he was kept him giddy and awake and anticipating the morning.
And finally, at around 7.30am, he opened his eyes.
The room slowly lightened as dawn peeked around the edges of the curtains, beckoning him irresistibly out of bed, around the other bed where his daughters slept, and towards the window.
He drew the curtains. And what lay on the other side took his breath away.
He looked back into the room.
“L,” he hissed. “L.”
A grunt came from the bed he’d just left.
“Come and see.”
Another grunt, then a groan.
“L!”
An exasperated sigh. “All right! Give me a moment. It’s not going anywhere, is it?”
The bedclothes shifted, and were still. He chuckled to himself. L wasn’t exactly a morning person.
Much like his eldest daughter, RTB, who he could see was studiously pretending to be asleep, arm flung over her eyes, trying to salvage a few more moments of speechless peace before she would have to acknowledge the inevitable start to the day.
But SJ was a different matter. She sat up, bleary-eyed, but sharply curious, blinking rapidly and squinting at him in the pale light.
“Wait ‘til you see this, SJ,” he whispered. And turned again to drink it all in.
The grand arc of soaring mountains, whose flinty peaks reached to the very limit of the window’s vision, looming high and dominating the scene.
The jagged, craggy texture of shadowy rock, splashed liberally by icy patches of pristine, glaringly white snow and peopled with the thin, black spikes of fir trees, their fingers waving down at him from the cliff tops and mountainsides.
The tranquil, mirror-like expanse of the lake itself, which stretched across the valley below, part-swathed in ice, transparent near the edges and a deeper blue-green in the centre.
And, as he watched, the scene changed.
Grey wisps of mist slipped down one mountainside and crept up another as Lake Louise performed her private striptease; boldly slipping off a strip of cloud to reveal a shoulder of bare rock here, teasingly whisking an opaque scarf over a frosted peak there. Ever-changing and endlessly fascinating.
And finally, as the sun rose, so did his family. They joined him at the window in time to witness the warm rays chase away the clouds, revealing at last the far end of the lake, where the snow lay deepest and a faint blue tinge to the ice revealed the presence of the vast, beautiful monster that had created the entire scene as it retreated across the valley.
“There’s the glacier,” he said.
And they looked at it, and they marvelled. And they looked at each other, and they grinned with delight.
It was, for him, another perfect moment.
For which I'm glad.
Happy Birthday, Dad.
